Text by Doug Wallace.
Mana is Hawaiian for “spiritual energy” or “universal life force.”
We begin the sunrise ceremony on the shore of Kauna‘oa Beach with the traditional chant E Ala Ē, led by our guide, Healani Kimitete-Ah Mow. This centuries-old morning ritual is intended to unite voices across the Hawaiian Islands and help visitors “appreciate the simplicity of life, appreciate the beauty that we have here,” Healani says, “and it’s important that we acknowledge those that came before us, because this is their land.”
She teaches us the chant before walking us slowly into the ocean. Waist-deep, we dunk our heads a few times, then drop leaves from the coastal plant pōhuehue into the water, each one a well-wish for our friends and family.
My first sunrise on Hawai‘i Island—previously referred to as Big Island—is also my first taste of the 50th U.S. state’s refreshed approach to tourism. I’m already seeing how Hawaiians are encouraging visitors to experience the islands in a more engaged and responsible way, one that goes beyond the sun and sand.
Healani, our cultural ambassador at Mauna Kea Resort, is one of many locals hired by hotels across the archipelago to foster a renaissance of Hawaiian heritage and pride. It’s one small part of a movement to preserve the local culture and environment and a return to the values that make this place so special.
These experiences are more than just entertainment—they provide teachable moments for visitors. Breezing in and out of Hawai‘i without learning about local culture perpetuates an ignorance that hampers efforts to protect the islands. It’s also a missed opportunity, considering there’s a fascinating 3,000-year-old history to explore, one the local people are urgently trying to preserve.
Mālama means “to care for,” “protect.”
I’m here to participate in the Mālama Hawai‘i program, which is one way the state government is encouraging visitors to give back to the land, ocean and wildlife, as well as to the communities you don’t see from the windows of a fancy hotel. In partnership with the Hawai‘i Visitors and Convention Bureau and the Hawai‘i Tourism Authority, the program offers voluntourism experiences that help protect fragile habitats and ecosystems. It’s an idea whose time has more than come. Given last year’s tragic fires in Maui, nurturing this part of the world feels more important than ever.
Laulima (“many hands”) is about working together for a greater cause.
Sturdy garden clippers in hand, I’m cutting away thick-butsoft stalks of Himalayan ginger and putting them in piles. The forest floor of this part of the Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park is overgrown with the weed. I’m one of about a dozen volunteers who have gathered here to remove this invasive species and give native plants a chance to thrive. The project, called Stewardship at the Summit, is part of the Mālama program and is led by Paul and Jane Field, who are spending their retirement in service to the forest. They meet volunteers here every Saturday morning.
“We’ve been doing this for 10 years. We love the park,” Paul says of this international biosphere reserve and UNESCO World Heritage site. “Invasive ginger is a nutrient- and water-hog and we try to remove as much as we can.” In turn, the park staff loves them “because we provide about 2,000 volunteer hours per year, most years,” he says. “That’s like one whole salary.”
Before we gather our gloves and clippers and head out on Halema‘uma‘u Trail—one of the oldest footpaths in the park—Kekoa Rosehill, a supervisory park ranger, performs a chant to encourage us and grant us knowledge. Paul points out that the morning’s work also provides “an introduction to the forest, so volunteers learn about the park and its history, too.”
Everyone gets right into it, particularly the folks who show up on a regular basis. “The camaraderie is great and the cause is good,” says regular Hawai‘i visitor Mike Malone, who started volunteering with his wife, Patti, about six months ago. “Paul and Jane are the encyclopedia of the park. Education is a big part of it. And you get to experience parts of the park that you wouldn’t see otherwise.”
The hours pass quickly as we cut our way far off the trail. With the ginger out of the way, there’s very little left underneath except for a few ferns. I find it satisfying to make space for the other plants to grow, almost like I’m giving the forest a haircut.
E ho‘omalu i nā holoholona is a plea to protect the animals.
This trip wasn’t all hard work. I was excited for a relaxing day, capped off with a moonlight swim at the Mauna Kea Resort with the manta rays that congregate just off the shore. The swim is curated by Manta Ray Advocates, a group that educates tourists about these gentle giants and that champions their protection while promoting safe and sustainable tourism practices.
We wade into the ocean and strap on our fins just a few metres in. Lights attached to our small surfboard illuminate the plankton in the water, attracting the mantas which gracefully swoop round and round, their mouths wide and mere inches from my face mask. The experience is beyond thrilling. We ooh and ahh into our snorkels at first, but then we’re silent, completely in awe of these beautiful creatures.
He ‘ohana k‘kou means “we are all family.”
Exploring a place’s history is not only enriching, but also a way to show respect. Choosing activities that support Indigenous culture help preserve Hawai‘i’s history and legacy, and fund efforts to sustain the community.
Hulihe‘e Palace in Kailua-Kona was the vacation home of Hawai‘i’s former royal family—the governing monarchy in place before the islands became a U.S. territory and then a state. Originally built out of lava rock in 1838, the palace sits on the same site as the home of Kamehameha the Great, the first ruler of the Kingdom of Hawai‘i. The palace was restored by the non-profit Daughters of Hawai‘i, founded in 1903 by influential local women to uphold Hawaiian culture and language.
The museum’s six large rooms are filled with treasures, including ornate koa wood furniture and fancy Victorian trinkets. I linger after the tour to examine the portraits and photographs of the royals that line the walls, feeling more like a visitor in someone’s home than a tourist. When you take the time to learn the story of a place, the rewards are sweet.
Maka‘ala refers to the practice of remaining alert.
Healani’s words are etched on my mind. “Anyone can do things when they come here,” she says, “but I think you also have to be—be present, be instilled in the culture. We call it maka‘ala. It means to be alert in the things you’re not familiar with. Honour the things you see here and leave Hawai‘i the way you see it, so that when you return, it will be the same.”
A CAA Travel Consultant can help you plan a sustainable vacation. Visit caasco.com/travel to learn more.
Think Outside the Guidebook
Anyone is welcome to volunteer with the Mālama Hawai‘i program. Here are some of the ways visitors can help:
- Collect debris from the beaches, parks and trails.
- Plant seedlings to aid in reforestation.
- Restore shorelines with native plants.
- Support age-old methods of sustainable farming.
- Patrol turtle nesting grounds.
Visit gohawaii.com/malama for more details.